Jacob's Delhi: Ferozabad's Heart

That Feroz Shah Tughlaq was an obsessive builder has been mentioned before. On the visit to Hauz Khas, I did come across a fair amount of his handiwork. Believing in a 'shock-and-awe' strategy with respect to public buildings, it wasn't long before he decided that the existing forts and population centres in Delhi (Mehrauli, Siri, Tughlaqabad and Jahanpanah) were inadequate for his ambitions. To that end, he decided to create his own capital on the banks of the Yamuna, in what he called Ferozabad. Within this was his palace complex built as a citadel that we know today as Feroz Shah Kotla (but which was called the Kushk-e-Feroz when it was built), which was the focus for this outing.

Now for a brief bio on the man. Regarded as the last of the more significant Tughlaqs, he ruled the Delhi Sultanate between 1351 and 1388, succeeding his cousin, Mohammed bin Tughlaq. It was a time of turmoil when he took over, and parts of the Sultanate were breaking away. Rather than risk protracted war, he chose to stabilize and administer a smaller realm. Now, Feroz Shah was no saint. Based on measures like the jaziya tax on non-Muslims and more direct conversion requests/orders, he was probably not the most fondly regarded of rulers. But, it seems that he did initiate significant building projects, including canals, madrasas and a rudimentary unani-based hospital system. He lowered land revenue taxes that were raised by his predecessor. Together with his prime minister Khan-e-Jahan Maqbul Tilangani, he ensured efficient and peaceful administration of the Sultanate.

To most Delhiites, and most other Indians, Feroz Shah Kotla is associated with cricket, courtesy the stadium built on land abutting the citadel. It's probably fair to say that most cricket fans visiting the stadium have never ventured inside the actual Kotla. I was amused to see that the Wikipedia article on the place (as of today) is a mixed-up narrative that can't decide whether to be about the stadium or the citadel. I guess I should try editing the article, when I get the chance.

Feroz Shah Kotla is located on Bahadur Shah Zafar marg, a leisurely 1.5km walk up north from the Pragati Maidan metro station. Walking north, past the offices of several major and minor newspapers, one comes to a gated park called Shaheed Park. Just beyond it, on the right, is a lane leading to the citadel. The monument is ticketed, with entry at Rs 5 for Indians (and SAARC, Myanmar, Thailand nationals) and Rs 100 for others. As with other ASI monuments, one can enter between 10 am and 5 pm. Based on what I saw, it is possible to park on the lane, though there is also a paid parking just before Shaheed Park, for those who prefer to drive in.

Right off the bat, it is apparent that the citadel is Tughlaq. The characteristics of Tughlaq architecture are everywhere - rough stones set in mortar and large, sloping walls are everywhere. From a location perspective, the citadel was built on the banks of the Yamuna back in the day, but the river itself has shifted course in the last century or so, leaving a road and sporting facilities where the river once flowed. Ferozabad marks the first time in Delhi that a major city was being constructed on the banks of the river. Given the water problems of the previous fortifications, it seems surprising that nobody thought of building a city near such an abundant source of water earlier (given that it was much cleaner back then than it is today).

Wall of Feroz Shah Kotla with circular bastion - note the arrow slits and sloping walls

Walking through the gate, there are ruins of buildings on either side, along with the obligatory ASI blurb on the place. There's a convenient map that identifies a Baoli (step-well), the Ashokan Pillar, a Mosque and the ruins of the Palace within the citadel, which I used to work my way through the place. The sheer number of green parrots and doves here (along with the more common crows and pigeons) is stunning. There is, of course, plenty of grain strewn around by people, making it a very attractive place for the birds.

Parrot in flight (this is at the western end of the citadel, but the birds are everywhere)

Walking to the left, there is a pathway leading straight to the Baoli. Unlike most other Baolis in Delhi, this one is circular, and isn't really a step-well. Right now, it's fenced off and the best that one can do is peer at it through the iron bars. It seems that this functioned more like a normal well, with a pulley system to get water into channels that distributed it. There are the ruins of a canopy which once covered the well. I imagine it must have been quite picturesque back in the day.

Circular Baoli - behind the iron curtain

Moving on from there, one immediately sees a pyramidal structure atop which is a broken Ashokan pillar. This pillar (initially carved around 250 BC) was brought here from near Ambala, and I gather that the pyramidal structure (consisting of inter-connected chambers on 3 levels) was designed specifically to showcase the pillar. It is possible to climb to the top of the pyramidal structure via an entrance on the western end (the rear, for all practical purposes), though there are a few very large dogs to contend with on the way around and up the structure. Once there one can see just how well turned out the pillar is. It has a highly polished finish and inscriptions in both the Brahmi script (the original Ashokan Pali edicts) and the more recent Kutila script (a precursor to modern Devanagari). A copper dome sat atop the pillar, but it was taken away during either the Maratha or Jat raids on Delhi in the 1700s.

Ashokan Pillar atop the pyramid

Arches inside the pyramid

A view of the Ashokan pillar from the rear

If you look around the lower level of the pyramid, you will find coloured strings, letters and flower offerings to djinns that are supposed to inhabit the place, asking for favours. I'm not sure of the story behind the practice, or of why this place is special, but the locals (both Muslim and Hindu) do believe that wishes are granted.

Offerings and petitions to the djinns

To the rear of the pillar and pyramid is a lovely square pavillion with concentric rings of pillars, but to appreciate it best, one should see it from the adjoining Jami Masjid. This is a well proportioned mosque that apparently impressed Timur the lame so much (while he was busy looting and pillaging) that he had artisans from his native Samarkand come in to copy the design for replication in his homeland. It was the largest of the 6 or 7 mosques built during Feroz Shah Tughlaq's reign. The mosque does have its share of intrigue as well, being the place where the Mughal king Alamgir II was murdered by his prime minister Imad-ul-Mulk in 1759. Since this is a functioning mosque, shoes do need to be removed at the entrance. Also, it's important to be respectful to the congregation during prayer times.

Ruins of the Jami Masjid

Entrance Archway to the Jami Masjid

Square pavillion to the rear of the pillar and the mosque - concentric rings of pillars

Finally, walking back along the southern edge, I came to the ruins of the palace area. Theoretically, these are separated into private apartments and audience halls. Given the state of ruin, I wasn't sure which was which, though it stands to reason that matters of state couldn't have happened too far from the main entrance, leaving the rest to be living quarters. All the same, the outline of the building gives an idea of its size and grandeur. It makes for a compelling walk, where one can take in the sight of the birds, trees and ruins as one goes along.

A solitary banyan tree in the south-eastern part of the palace area

South gate of Feroz Shah Kotla

And that's it. I was back, full circle, to the entrance gate, having walked past a medley of ruins in an advanced state of decay. On the way out, it's worth one's while to pop across to the median in the road and take a look at the Khooni Darwaza. This is of a more recent vintage than Ferozabad, and was probably the northern extremity of Sher Shah Suri's Shergarh city. The ASI would like us to believe that it was Shergarh's Kabuli Darwaza, showing the way to Kabul, but it's difficult to reconcile it with the theory that Shergarh's city walls probably never extended this far north. The archway's claim to fame is that this is the place where the Mughal dynasty came to an end. In the aftermath of the events of 1857, Bahadur Shah Zafar's sons and grandson were brought back to Delhi and executed at this spot, with their bodies displayed here for days afterwards, giving the gate it's popular name. That's something to chew on.