I first visited Surajkund back in 1996 on a school trip to Delhi. We travelled from Chanakyapuri, where we were staying, for what seemed an eternity to get to the venue of the annual Surajkund Mela. The sight of all the craft stalls and cultural events was mesmerizing even then. I had no idea of the historical significance of the structure just across the road from the fair venue.
Plonked down in a valley is an enormous amphitheatre-like structure with a pavillion at one end. This is the Suraj Kund, a (now dry) artificial lake, built by the Tomar king Suraj Pal in the 11th century. The Tomars were, historically, the first major power to make the region around Delhi a capital. Lal Kot, the fort they built in what is now Mehrauli, was to become one of the earliest centres of development of Delhi. However, before they ventured here, they had built fortifications and a city (using the term loosely) around Suraj Kund in around the 8th century. Even today, the village of Anangpur (named after one of the kings that went by the name of Anangpal) close to the Kund is like a memorial to Delhi's Tomar past.
The trigger for this visit was the Surajkund Mela, held between Feb 1 and 15 every year, and showcasing handicrafts from across India, SAARC and other nations. Entry to the Mela costs Rs 50. It tends to get quite crowded in the evenings and so a morning visit is always preferable. During these two weeks, special buses run from Delhi, Gurgaon, Noida and Faridabad to the Surajkund fairground. At other times, public transport access may have to be by bus via Faridabad. I chose to drive in, following the 4.5km route from Tughlaqabad fort (running by the side of Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq's tomb) to the Claridges hotel in Faridabad, from where the site is another 500 metres up a road to the right). The monument itself is maintained by the ASI and is ticketed (At Rs 5 for Indians and SAARC/Burma/Thailand nationals, and Rs 100 for others).
The historical Suraj Kund is supposed to have had a Surya temple on its western end, though this was destroyed (and later replaced by a stepped pavillion, shaped rather like a Mayan temple, by Feroz Shah Tughlaq in the 1300s). Most of the semi-circular amphitheatre-like masonry is also the contribution of Feroz Shah Tughlaq (with later touch-up jobs). It is possible to walk around the structure and up the pavillion, but it is largely featureless. The only other structure of note is a ramp leading down the northern end of the lake, purportedly for elephants to walk down to the water. The site is quite empty these days, and it wouldn't be surprising if you found no other visitors there. I have heard conflicting answers to the question of whether the lake fills up during the monsoon. I guess the only way to answer it is to visit during the monsoons and see for oneself. Let's see if I ever get down to it.
There is supposed to be an 8th century dam built by Anangpal I close by, which used to be maintained by the villagers from Anangpur till the 1990s. However, I was unable to locate the dam, and doubt I ever will find it. Most of the natural topography that channeled water into the lake is now gone, courtesy rampant mining in the surrounding Aravalli hills. Hence my skepticism about ever seeing the lake with water. In summary, the Kund itself may not be the most exciting of monuments, but the historicity of it still does make it a compelling destination.
To make the most of the trip, I visited the Mela across the road as well. Assam was the theme state of the year, and they were quite prominently showcased through handicraft stalls and cultural events. I leave you with images of craft stalls and dancing.
Here is a map of the location and the route to get there.
Plonked down in a valley is an enormous amphitheatre-like structure with a pavillion at one end. This is the Suraj Kund, a (now dry) artificial lake, built by the Tomar king Suraj Pal in the 11th century. The Tomars were, historically, the first major power to make the region around Delhi a capital. Lal Kot, the fort they built in what is now Mehrauli, was to become one of the earliest centres of development of Delhi. However, before they ventured here, they had built fortifications and a city (using the term loosely) around Suraj Kund in around the 8th century. Even today, the village of Anangpur (named after one of the kings that went by the name of Anangpal) close to the Kund is like a memorial to Delhi's Tomar past.
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| The Suraj Kund Lakebed and Pavillion |
The trigger for this visit was the Surajkund Mela, held between Feb 1 and 15 every year, and showcasing handicrafts from across India, SAARC and other nations. Entry to the Mela costs Rs 50. It tends to get quite crowded in the evenings and so a morning visit is always preferable. During these two weeks, special buses run from Delhi, Gurgaon, Noida and Faridabad to the Surajkund fairground. At other times, public transport access may have to be by bus via Faridabad. I chose to drive in, following the 4.5km route from Tughlaqabad fort (running by the side of Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq's tomb) to the Claridges hotel in Faridabad, from where the site is another 500 metres up a road to the right). The monument itself is maintained by the ASI and is ticketed (At Rs 5 for Indians and SAARC/Burma/Thailand nationals, and Rs 100 for others).
The historical Suraj Kund is supposed to have had a Surya temple on its western end, though this was destroyed (and later replaced by a stepped pavillion, shaped rather like a Mayan temple, by Feroz Shah Tughlaq in the 1300s). Most of the semi-circular amphitheatre-like masonry is also the contribution of Feroz Shah Tughlaq (with later touch-up jobs). It is possible to walk around the structure and up the pavillion, but it is largely featureless. The only other structure of note is a ramp leading down the northern end of the lake, purportedly for elephants to walk down to the water. The site is quite empty these days, and it wouldn't be surprising if you found no other visitors there. I have heard conflicting answers to the question of whether the lake fills up during the monsoon. I guess the only way to answer it is to visit during the monsoons and see for oneself. Let's see if I ever get down to it.
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| A closer look at the pavillion |
There is supposed to be an 8th century dam built by Anangpal I close by, which used to be maintained by the villagers from Anangpur till the 1990s. However, I was unable to locate the dam, and doubt I ever will find it. Most of the natural topography that channeled water into the lake is now gone, courtesy rampant mining in the surrounding Aravalli hills. Hence my skepticism about ever seeing the lake with water. In summary, the Kund itself may not be the most exciting of monuments, but the historicity of it still does make it a compelling destination.
To make the most of the trip, I visited the Mela across the road as well. Assam was the theme state of the year, and they were quite prominently showcased through handicraft stalls and cultural events. I leave you with images of craft stalls and dancing.
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| Dancing, Haryanvi style |
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| Handicrafts on sale at Surajkund Mela |
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| Assam showcasing its traditional dancing |
Here is a map of the location and the route to get there.
View Suraj Kund in a larger map
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