The Changing of the Guard at Rashtrapati Bhavan

Today I decided to come back from the dead and fast forward into a more modern Delhi. Much has been made of the Delhi Sultanate and the Mughals in this blog, and I figured that it would be nice to mix things up a bit and take a look at bits of New Delhi.

Rashtrapati Bhavan, the official residence of the President of India, is an immense structure. Built initially as 'Viceroy's House' in 1931, this building was the centre-piece of the New Delhi designed by Edwin Lutyens, Herbert Baker and others. It is located on a modest rise that a village called Raisina once called home, and is flanked by North and South Block, buildings that house some of the most important government offices. The design is inspired by earlier Indo-Saracenic themes, though there is a distinct incorporation of elements from what was then contemporary British architecture. 

All kinds of architectural curiosities exist, jostling for attention. There are 4 rather prominent 'Dominion Columns', gifts to India from Commonwealth dominions at the time - Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa in anticipation of India joining their ranks. Then there is the Jaipur column in front of Rashtrapati Bhavan. The pillar was a gift from the Maharajah of Jaipur at the time, and carries a bronze lotus atop which sits the six-pointed 'Star of India' (and not a cross, as is sometimes thought). The Bell Tower and colonnaded North and South Block buildings are reminiscent of Herbert Baker's earlier work on the design of the Union Buildings at Pretoria. 

Sadly, so much of the architecture is out of reach for the common man - visiting Rashtrapati Bhavan itself requires advance written permission. I had visited the building back in 1994, courtesy a school trip to Delhi, and so I haven't built up the curiosity to explore the option of getting permission to visit, though I do feel that it really should be a much more straightforward process. Maybe we can take a cue from the British and Americans when it comes to opening up public buildings to the public.

One aspect of Rashtrapati Bhavan that is public-friendly is the weekly Changing of the Guard on Saturday mornings. This rather unknown ceremony (nobody I know from Delhi has ever heard of it) is an opportunity to see some of the pomp and circumstance that the President must be sick of by now. The timings vary depending on the season (it runs from 8 am to 8:40 am between 15 March and 14 August, from 9 am to 9:40 am between 15 August and 14 November, and from 10 am to 10:40 am between 15 November and 14 March). All one needs to do is show up - no passes or tickets required. There is some seating available, and the very friendly policemen will show you to them at the start of the ceremony. Photography-inclined people would do well to avoid the seats, though, as it's unlikely you'll be able to get a good view of everything from any one position. The ceremony consists of the President's Body Guard (on horseback) and (at least for now) a group from the Madras Regiment (28 Battalion, for those interested in the details) coming out of Rashtrapati Bhavan towards North / South Block. There is an inspection of soldiers here, and a lot of stomping of feet and raising and lowering of rifles. The officers in charge do some fancy sword-waving and the whole group moves into the Rashtrapati Bhavan compound - take a cue from the rest of the audience and make your way inside as well. Once inside, the new guard accepts the keys to the castle from the old, they exchange greetings and stomp off towards the building. Then plainclothes policemen shoo you away (literally - no words, just a dismissive waving of hands).

I leave you with photographs from this morning's event.

President's Body Guard

28 Battalion, Madras Regiment

Madras Regiment Band

Taking Positions for Inspection

Mounted and Ready

Marching Away

The Band in Motion

Towards Rashtrapati Bhavan - Gates Open

The Actual Change of Guard

Moving Out

Rashtrapati Bhavan and the Jaipur Column

One of the Dominion Columns - From Canada with Love

Soldiers of the President's Body Guard

Getting here - just take the metro to Central Secretariat and walk towards Rashtrapati Bhavan. The police will let you in as the ceremony is about to begin. If you insist on driving in - there is some (as yet untested) parking to the left of South Block.