Humayun's Tomb - The Birth of Mughal Architecture

Having started down the slippery slope of dealing with the more well known of Delhi's monuments, I'm going to write about Humayun's Tomb, the first major Mughal tomb. This post will be an amalgamation of facts and images gathered over several trips in the past. I do plan a trip in the next few weeks, and will probably update this post once I'm done with that.

For context, the tomb was constructed by Humayun's widow, Hamida Banu Begum, in 1565. The tomb is set in a Persian Char Bagh style garden (representing the Muslim version of paradise) with water channels dividing the area into rectangular sections, and is one of the first full-dome tombs around this part of the world. The sandstone and marble distinctively set it apart from earlier tombs in the area, which made more use of stone (exceptions exist...but the scale of this is unprecedented). This was an architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal in Agra, and the key design elements here are replicated in Agra. Since this was also designated a a UNESCO world heritage site some two decades ago, the complex is relatively well preserved, and doesn't have the 'Raju loves Sheila' graffiti that mars so many of Delhi's monuments. Interestingly, the tomb has become the resting place for many Mughal royals, so much so that the sobriquet 'Dormitory of the House of Timur' has come to be associated with this place - there's another pointless history/GK question for hapless school students.

The site is open daily from dawn to dusk. Getting here involves taking the metro to JLN stadium on the violet line and either walking or taking an auto-rickshaw for a short 2 km hop to the complex. There's parking there too, if you drive in. Entry fees are Rs 10 for Indians/SAARC nationals and a ridiculous Rs 250 for foreigners (with an audio guide thrown in to lessen the sting). I wonder when we'll stop being racist about this. As you walk/drive in, the Sabz Burj (translates to Green Dome(?)/Tower(?) with its lurid blue dome (redone with the mixed up colour scheme, courtesy the ASI, who seemed to have lost their Persian to Hindi dictionary that day). Look for the remaining multi-colour tiles just below the blue dome - those are the originals. You can't get in, but it is eye-catching.

Interestingly, the complex has a few more structures besides Humayun's tomb. Entry to the complex will be through the western side (the main entrance back in the day was on the southern side, so this isn't quite the view that the architects had in mind). There's a little museum at the entrance, giving some context on what you are about to see. One starts off in what was once 'Bu Halima's Garden'. There isn't much good information on who she was, but given the proximity to the tomb, it is fair to assume that she was important. On the right is the octagonal Tomb of Isa Khan Niyazi, an Afghan nobleman in Sher Shah Suri's court, with a mosque built into the enclosure wall. Moving through the first gate, one sees the Arab Sarai on the right, built for craftsmen brought by Hamida Banu Begum to work on the site along with the 'Afsarwala Tomb' and Mosque built for one of Akbar's nobles. The site is mostly in ruins, but there are good views to be had if you climb up to the top of the structure (there are stairs).

The Afsarwala Mosque and Tomb at the Arab Sarai

The first gate, from Bu Halima's Garden into the rest of the complex, has some intricate features

The second gate, leading up to Humayun's Tomb with the dome poking up above it

As you approach the enormous second gate, you begin to see the dome of Humayun's Tomb, almost as though it was part of the gateway. Only when you cross over to the inside does the tomb fully reveal itself. The garden is set beautifully, and there is water in the channels. There are functional fountains that add to the ambiance. The tomb itself is built on a large stone platform (to add to the massiveness of the structure, slightly Soviet-esque), and there are steps to climb to get to the main entry level (no easy access here). The tomb itself is an enormous 2 level structure with a double dome clad in marble and a lower-level chamber that houses the real graves. What you see is just a cenotaph (for lack of a better word), placed directly above the real grave of Humayun. The interiors are done up with intricate lattice windows which work well to illuminate the cenotaph. If you look to the southeast, you will see two structures - the Nai ka Gumbad (supposedly built for Humayun's barber) and the Nila Gumbad, outside the complex. There isn't much to see there.

Looking back at the entrance arch from Humayun's Tomb

Water Fountains do enhance the ambiance of the place

Humayun's Tomb set in the Charbagh garden with water channels cutting through it

The structure makes extensive use of sandstone and marble, and is built on two levels

There's a lot of lattice work to stand in for windows - keeps the interiors cool

One of the lattice windows

The art-like quality of the lattice windows is in contrast with the functional lattices at, say, the Khirki mosque 

Cenotaph over the grave of Humayun - lit beautifully by the lattices

Nai ka Gumbad and Nila Gumbad - it paid to hold a blade to the Emperor's neck

And that concludes the whistle-stop tour of Humayun's Tomb. The complex is well preserved, and the gardens provide the kind of tranquility that is hard to find in Delhi these days. Let's hope we keep it that way.

Here's a map to help you on your way:

View Humayun's Tomb in a larger map

The Qutub and its Surroundings

So far, I've concentrated on Delhi's lesser known monuments, avoiding the Holy Trinity of Delhi's past - The Red Fort, the Qutub Minar and Humayun's Tomb. There's more than enough material on these places on the internet, and I chose to prioritize based on where I found it most difficult to obtain good information.

Anyway, in this post, I will focus on the Qutub Minar area. I've already published two posts on other areas in Mehrauli - the Archaeological Park and the stretch of Urban Mehrauli from Andheria Mode (or Mor, depending on how you choose to transliterate the Hindi ड़ ) up to the bus stand. This was the real seat of power in the Delhi area till almost the 1300s and so it's not surprising that the place is littered with reminders of its past.

The area first has its origins in the Tomar Lal Kot (later Qila Rai Pithora with the arrival of Prithviraj Chauhan on the scene). In 1192, after the Battles of Tarain, control of the area fell to Muhammad Ghori and, in progression, to the Mamluk dynasty - a loosely defined dynasty of varied lineage, key players of which were its founder Qutb-ud-din Aibak and the biggest contributor to thy dynasty, Shams-ud-din Iltutmish. Both these individuals have been central to the development of the Qutb Minar area as we see it today. Later rulers like Ala-ud-din Khilji and Feroz Shah Tughlaq added to the area, but more on that later.

I'm basing my post on a series of trips I've made over the years, the last being in November 2012. So, some of the costs may be dated. The Qutub complex is open on all days, though the weekends see visitor numbers balloon. Getting there is easy enough. The Qutub Minar metro station is a short rickshaw ride away, and shared autos exist to get you there relatively cheaply. It's a 2 km walk, if you're up for it. There is paid parking available for cars just outside the complex, and one shouldn't have much difficulty parking. The ticket-booth is across the road from the complex, and charges Indians Rs 10 for entry (foreigners are charged the almost apartheid rate of Rs 250 for the same privilege, with an audio-guide thrown in as a kind of compensation). If you want to rent an audio-guide separately, it costs Rs 100. Audio-guide pick-ups are adjacent to the entry to the complex. Large bags aren't allowed, but you could take in a small backpack or camera bag. They charge a small fee for storing luggage in a cloakroom adjacent to the ticket counters.  Funny set of disjoint arrangements, but that's how they've done it. Security arrangements are tighter here than at the lesser monuments in Delhi, and nuances like the ability to carry bags in may change from time to time. It is a 'UNESCO World Heritage Site', after all.

Entering the complex through the main gate, one can immediately see the Qutub Minar, once one of the tallest man made structures in the world even as late as a century ago. But before we get to it, some context. To the right side of the Qutub Minar is the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque (I believe it translates to 'might of Islam'). This is a large rectangular mosque, constructed in 1193 by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the first of the Mamluk Sultans, but then a general commanding the Delhi garrison of Muhammad Ghori. The Delhi Sultanate begins with Qutb-ud-din Aibak, and he seemed to want to make a statement with the mosque. This functioned as Delhi's main mosque for the next couple of hundred years, and was built with material from 27 Hindu and Jain temples that were destroyed in the process. The main entrance to the mosque is through the Alai Darwaza, built by Ala-ud-din Khilji around 1300, and the Qutub Minar in the south-west corner of the mosque was meant to serve as the tower from where the priest could call people to prayer. 

The Qutub Minar is a 5 storeyed tapering, ribbed structure, started by Qutb-ud-din and finished by Iltutmish. It has been struck by lightning a few times, and was repaired by Firoz Shah Tughlaq, Sikandar Lodi and then by the British - the two top storeys are in marble, and look different. Of course, if you look to the south of the Qutub, you'll find a rather out-of-place European-style canopy that the British (an army engineer called Major Smith, apparently) once placed atop the monument. Luckily it's no longer at the top. The calligraphy work is quite artistic, and the corbels under the balconies on each storey add a flourish that makes the building what it is.

At the eastern end of the mosque are stylistic arches that were made by Iltutmish, covered in calligraphy. And, in the middle of the courtyard is the famous 'Iron Pillar' of Mehrauli, originally erected near Udayagiri in Madhya Pradesh by Chandragupta Vikramaditya around 400 AD, but brought to Delhi by the Tomar king Anangpal, who installed it in its current location, as part of a Vishnu temple. The pillar is mostly rust-free even now, and scientists really don't know exactly how the metallurgists who created this managed it. Today it's fenced to prevent people from trying their luck with wrapping their arms behind themselves and around the pillar (something that apparently results in good luck - from personal experience, I know this to not be true). Next to the Alai Darwaza is the tomb of Imam Zamin, a Muslim saint who lived in the later Lodhi period. There's just so much going on that it's difficult to take it in all at once. The roughness of the main mosque complex is at odds with the finesse of the Alai Darwaza, and the Iron Pillar is altogether out of place here. Pictures probably speak better than words here, so here goes:

The Alai Darwaza, the main entrancce to the Quwwat ul Islam mosque, with the Qutub Minar in the Background

The intricate calligraphy on the eastern arches of the mosque

The un-rustable Iron Pillar, almost 2.5 millennia old

Pillars that support the aisles at the mosque - note the Hindu artwork

The Qutub Minar, in all its glory

There are a few more noteworthy structures here. The first is the tomb of Iltutmish, just to the north of the mosque. The tomb seems to have had a roof at one time, but it has since collapsed. The artistic details are reaosnably intact, and the white marble tomb rests beautifully atop a red sandstone platform. The structure also functioned as a Madrasa for a while. The second is the enormous Alai Minar, to the east of the mosque complex, indended to be part of an extension of the mosque. This was started by Ala-ud-din Khilji in the 1300s, but was never completed. The dimensions of the base suggest that the minar was to be 4 times the height of the Qutub Minar. Ala-ud-din died, and his successor had no interest in continuing with his ego project. And so, all we have now is rubble. Finally, there is also the tomb of Ala-ud-din Khilji, not as exciting as the other tombs here.

Tomb of Iltutmish, with its beautiful artwork and carvings

Alai Minar - I wonder if the Ambani's home will go this way

As you leave, don't forget to catch a glimpse of a weird ziggurat-shaped pyramid and a helical ramp. These 'follies' were built by Thomas Metcalfe, British resident to the Mughal court in the years before 1857. He had his country home right next door, in what is today the Mehrauli Archaeological Park, and decided that this kind of landscaping made the view from his home more interesting. As for me, I have a view of similar pointless rubble, since I live in Gurgaon, and I didn't even have to pay to have it built.

Here is a map of the area:

View Qutub complex in a larger map

Lodi Gardens - Tranquility and Beauty

Ok...it has been over a year since I last posted something on this blog. In my defence, I did get married in the interim and suddenly developed a set of different priorities. This weekend has, however, been particularly lazy, and so I decided to try blogging again. In this post, I wanted to cover Lodi Gardens, beloved by many a Delhiite.

Lodi Gardens is a particularly pretty open space - well manicured lawns, the abundance of trees and flowers, a meandering lake and a rather unlikely confluence of archaeological structures make this one of the best parks in Delhi. A lot of the landscaping that exists today is credited to J A Stein, though he did build on the earlier efforts of a rather self-promotion-savvy Lady Willingdon, the wife of the Viceroy in the 1930s (it was called Lady Willingdon Park prior to independence). Getting here couldn't be easier - 2 metro stations (Jor Bagh on the Yellow Line and Khan Market on the Violet Line) in close proximity and a bus stop right in front of its Lodhi Road entrance, plus free parking here for those driving in, makes access particularly straightforward. And the icing on the cake is that entry is free. There's no ticket to be bought, and no queues to stand in. It's accessible all days of the week, from dawn to dusk.

Starting off at the Lodhi Road entrance, if one were to walk in and take the left fork where the pathway diverges, one comes to the tomb of Muhammed Shah Sayyid, the second last of the Sayyid dynasty (his son ruled for a further 5 years after his reign before handing over power to the Lodis). This is an octagonal tomb set on a rise. There are small canopies called 'chatris' surrounding the main dome, adding to the ornamentation of the structure.

Muhammed Shah Sayyid's Tomb - not so lonely at the top with 8 graves inside

There aren't many more of these Sayyid era structures, and so this is a bit of a rarity as far as 15th century Delhi Sultanate architecture goes.

Backtracking to the fork, one comes across two structures facing each other. The first is a rather large entrance to a relatively small mosque, called the Bada Gumbad. This came up in the 1400s too, during the reign of Sikandar Lodi, the last of the Lodi rulers. The dome of the entrance is enormous, dwarfing the three domes of the mosque. Technical note: this is the first example of a full dome in Delhi (i.e. a dome that is half a sphere).

Entrance to the Bada Gumbad Mosque

Bada Gumbad Entrance and Mosque - notice the replica Qutub Minar behind the mosque (right end of the picture).

Across from the Bada Gumbad is the Sheesh Gumbad, named for the glazed blue tiles that you can see on it (shiny tiles seem to have been a big deal back in the day). Apparently the dome was covered in these tiles earlier on. This probably also came up during the reign of Sikandar Lodi, though I don't think one really knows who lies buried within.

Sheesh Gumbad - A Few Blue Tiles

The Sheesh Gumbad with the Bada Gumbad in the Background

The Sheesh Gumbad and the Bada Gumbad - Picturesque Setting

Walking further along, one reaches the rather formidably defended tomb of Sikandar Lodi, someone with the misfortune of being known primarily as the guy who lost his empire to Babur, paving the way for the foundation of the Mughal dynasty in India.

The tomb is contained in a walled enclosure, resembling a mini-fort. Who knows why they felt that this would keep anyone out. The tomb itself isn't too impressive, and is another octagonal structure with chatris. One wonders why they can't maintain the lawns and plants here the same as they do elsewhere.

Enclosure surrounding Sikandar Lodi's Tomb - This'll keep them out

Sikandar Lodi's Tomb - Octagonal, with the trademark Lodi clover-leaf lining on the roof.

I don't want to forget about the water-body here. There's an arc-shaped lake that once supplied water from the Yamuna to Sikandar Lodi's tomb. Across it is a Mughal-era bridge called the Athpula (because of its 8 pillars), built by Emperor Akbar. There are a bunch of geese that seem to inhabit the lake, and seem a bit more plump than they should be, as a result of feeding by civic-minded Delhiites that either can't read or don't care for the sign that forbids feeding the birds.

The Athpula across the Lake - that's one water body that never goes dry

Why do Delhiites want to feed the geese bread? Time to introduce birds that bite the hand that feeds them 

 And so, that's most of what exists in the park. There's a watchtower in a corner and another minor mosque, but one tends to get lazy. It's interesting how this park has been kept so well-maintained. I'm sure it has nothing to do with the politicians and bureaucrats that live in the neighbourhood.

For convenience, here is a map of the area:

View Lodi Gardens in a larger map

The Changing of the Guard at Rashtrapati Bhavan

Today I decided to come back from the dead and fast forward into a more modern Delhi. Much has been made of the Delhi Sultanate and the Mughals in this blog, and I figured that it would be nice to mix things up a bit and take a look at bits of New Delhi.

Rashtrapati Bhavan, the official residence of the President of India, is an immense structure. Built initially as 'Viceroy's House' in 1931, this building was the centre-piece of the New Delhi designed by Edwin Lutyens, Herbert Baker and others. It is located on a modest rise that a village called Raisina once called home, and is flanked by North and South Block, buildings that house some of the most important government offices. The design is inspired by earlier Indo-Saracenic themes, though there is a distinct incorporation of elements from what was then contemporary British architecture. 

All kinds of architectural curiosities exist, jostling for attention. There are 4 rather prominent 'Dominion Columns', gifts to India from Commonwealth dominions at the time - Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa in anticipation of India joining their ranks. Then there is the Jaipur column in front of Rashtrapati Bhavan. The pillar was a gift from the Maharajah of Jaipur at the time, and carries a bronze lotus atop which sits the six-pointed 'Star of India' (and not a cross, as is sometimes thought). The Bell Tower and colonnaded North and South Block buildings are reminiscent of Herbert Baker's earlier work on the design of the Union Buildings at Pretoria. 

Sadly, so much of the architecture is out of reach for the common man - visiting Rashtrapati Bhavan itself requires advance written permission. I had visited the building back in 1994, courtesy a school trip to Delhi, and so I haven't built up the curiosity to explore the option of getting permission to visit, though I do feel that it really should be a much more straightforward process. Maybe we can take a cue from the British and Americans when it comes to opening up public buildings to the public.

One aspect of Rashtrapati Bhavan that is public-friendly is the weekly Changing of the Guard on Saturday mornings. This rather unknown ceremony (nobody I know from Delhi has ever heard of it) is an opportunity to see some of the pomp and circumstance that the President must be sick of by now. The timings vary depending on the season (it runs from 8 am to 8:40 am between 15 March and 14 August, from 9 am to 9:40 am between 15 August and 14 November, and from 10 am to 10:40 am between 15 November and 14 March). All one needs to do is show up - no passes or tickets required. There is some seating available, and the very friendly policemen will show you to them at the start of the ceremony. Photography-inclined people would do well to avoid the seats, though, as it's unlikely you'll be able to get a good view of everything from any one position. The ceremony consists of the President's Body Guard (on horseback) and (at least for now) a group from the Madras Regiment (28 Battalion, for those interested in the details) coming out of Rashtrapati Bhavan towards North / South Block. There is an inspection of soldiers here, and a lot of stomping of feet and raising and lowering of rifles. The officers in charge do some fancy sword-waving and the whole group moves into the Rashtrapati Bhavan compound - take a cue from the rest of the audience and make your way inside as well. Once inside, the new guard accepts the keys to the castle from the old, they exchange greetings and stomp off towards the building. Then plainclothes policemen shoo you away (literally - no words, just a dismissive waving of hands).

I leave you with photographs from this morning's event.

President's Body Guard

28 Battalion, Madras Regiment

Madras Regiment Band

Taking Positions for Inspection

Mounted and Ready

Marching Away

The Band in Motion

Towards Rashtrapati Bhavan - Gates Open

The Actual Change of Guard

Moving Out

Rashtrapati Bhavan and the Jaipur Column

One of the Dominion Columns - From Canada with Love

Soldiers of the President's Body Guard

Getting here - just take the metro to Central Secretariat and walk towards Rashtrapati Bhavan. The police will let you in as the ceremony is about to begin. If you insist on driving in - there is some (as yet untested) parking to the left of South Block.

Missing in Action

It has been a couple of weeks since I last posted here. There is still a lot to see in Delhi, and certainly very short window of good weather left before Delhi becomes a blazing inferno. However, my blogging was interrupted because I was in Chennai over the weekend. While it was far from being my first visit there, I managed to see a few amazing place and experience a few new things. Ever the foodie, the highlight of my trip was the excellent food that Chennai has to offer (something that seems to baffle and bewilder most people I say this to). Delhi does have some catching up to do, if what I saw is any indication of the general quality of eateries. 

I do want to maintain the Delhi-focused nature of the blog, and so I won't turn this into a report of my trip. What I do want to share are pictures of three places that I visited while in Chennai.

The Armenian Church: This is a surprisingly little-known institution on, where else, Armenian Street, just off the High Court. It was constructed in 1712 for the then sizable Armenian community that largely engaged in trade, and later demolished and rebuilt in 1772. Officially called St. Mary's Armenian Church, it is a simple, unassuming building whose only embellishment is an altar with a beautifully framed painting of the Virgin Mary. All along the pathways are tombstones with lettering in Armenian. The church itself is small and can probably house no more than a hundred at a time. There is a bell-tower to the side of the church with images of angels set into the plaster on the inside.

Entrance to Armenian Church, Georgetown, Chennai

Rear of the Church - the conical dome is a very Armenian feature

Bell-tower with a creaky wooden staircase

Altar of the Church with a beautiful painting of the Virgin Mary

One of four angels inside the Bell Tower

Tombstones in Armenian line the pathways

Madras War Cemetery: Similar to the Commonwealth War Memorial in Delhi, the MWC is a beautiful memorial to British soldiers who died in World War II (with a wall remembering the names of those killed in World War I). Walking through the entrance, one comes to a serene and prim garden where rows of tombstones are neatly arranged. Glancing through the epitaphs, one can't help but feel moved by the personal circumstances of these individuals. Today, the Commonwealth War Graves Commission maintains the cemetery, and it stands out for its beauty and its simplicity.

Entrance to Madras War Cemetery

Stone of Remembrance and the Cross of Sacrifice sandwiching the gravestones

Tombstones

Memorial wall to British soldiers that died in WWI

  

Government Museum and Museum Theatre: Now, this is one place where the venue outdoes the curated collection. The Museum Theatre is a lovely place to catch stage plays, and is still maintained in much the same way as it was in the past. Finding out about events here is another matter altogether. The museum itself is a bit of a disappointment, and I found it disappointing that they charge Rs 200 to use a still camera...something that borders on daylight robbery given the poor quality of the displays and facilities. Still...there are a few gems that do sparkle. The highlight is the Bronze Gallery which houses some very beautiful Bronze statues, primarily from the Chola period. The other display that caught my attention is an enormous whale skeleton, beautifully arranged with its lower jaws turned into an archway.

Museum Theatre Building

11th Century Chozha Bronze statue of Nataraja from Thanjavur

The skeleton of a whale

 A lion-shaped cannon of Tipu Sultan's, taken from Srirangapattinam